The rest day in Carrión really did help. I got out of bed this morning and, for the first time in weeks, my feet didn’t hurt as I first put weight on them. The things that seem normal on the Camino..!

We’ve seen the occasional “backward pilgrim,” people heading away from Santiago. Sometimes, like the grumpy Portuguese guy who warned us against Spaniards (a fool – everybody in Spain has been kind to us and nobody has tried to steal our things), they have the look of those who have been walking for months – haggard, worn-out, and not smiling. But sometimes they look more like they’ve forgotten a cell phone charger in the last albergue. I’ve even seen a husband-and-wife couple doing the Camino backwards – on a tandem bicycle!

Below: We named this kitty “Mr. Whiskers.”

Below: He was very persistent in his begging while we stopped for a snack.

Below: Mr. Whiskers was rewarded for his cuteness with large amounts of chorizo.

Below: This way! This is in the same town, Ledigos, where Ori found out about the birth of her niece. Divine intervention by Saint James was suspected when we stopped for coffee in a bar that happened to have free wifi, and Ori was able to receive an email with the good news, sent just minutes before.

Below: The albergue dining room at Terradillos. We shared a four-person room with Manu and Lenka.

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