I forgot to mention it yesterday, but we walked our 1,000th kilometer on the way to Agés! It was really starting to feel like we’d made some progress.

I don’t know if you’ve been closely examining the scans from my pilgrim passport (right), but if you have, you’ll notice that there are stamps from more than just the places we stayed (e.g., San Juan de Ortega and Burgos Cathedral). Pretty much every establishment, accommodation, and significant building along the route in Spain has a rubber stamp, so I tried to collect interesting ones that documented our little adventures.

Below: Getting an early start. Ori, Manu, Lenka and I had only 23 kilometers to walk to Burgos, but we wanted to arrive in time for the noon mass at the cathedral, which we heard was “worth attending.” Unfortunately, this meant getting up well before sunrise and hitting the road at 6am.

Below: A relevant mural along the way. The iron in particular was a running joke – we’d bought a postcard in France that showed a pilgrim at the post office, mailing home all kinds of extra stuff, including an iron.

Here’s the postcard. Looking at these two images side by side, I wonder if they were drawn by the same person?

Below: An “edited” sign. Of course, pilgrims are much more likely along this road than deer!

Below: The walk into Burgos was awful – an industrial wasteland of abandoned buildings for kilometer after kilometer (yay recession). There was also a Bridgestone tire factory that went on forever.







Below: A chapel in Burgos Cathedral, a welcome change from the walk into town. At 11:59am, we rounded the corner into the Plaza de Santa María to the sound of deafeningly glorious bells calling los burgaléses to mass, and it really felt like they were ringing for us. Alas, the mass itself was a disappointment – entirely in Spanish (what was I expecting?) and not very pilgrim-oriented, as I thought it was supposed to be. However, the readings included John 14:6 (“I am the way” – Jesus). Given that the Spanish translation of this well-known Bible verse is “Yo soy el camino,” I did manage to pick up the word “camino” about a hundred times during the sermon, which made it at least sound relevant. What made it truly special, however, was when mass ended and people were leaving, many noticed us ragtag pilgrims (mostly gathered at the back in overflow seating) and wished us a “buen camino” on their way past.

Below: The square outside the cathedral in Burgos. The tall, pointy tower on the right is part of the cathedral cloisters, but its shape and geometric decoration made me think of a minaret. In Spain, I occasionally saw things that made me think of the country’s erstwhile Moorish influences.

Below: Absolutely the weirdest thing we saw all Camino: an cat-eyed ice cream cone eating one of its progeny while striking a jaunty pose.

Below: Lenka, Alfonso, and Peter in front of the Burgos cathedral.

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