Below: Another Spanish morning filled with interesting colours and textures. It was a cool, windy, crisp and clear day. Ori said she felt like going out to buy school supplies.

Below: Can you guess what this is (at 42.6808°N, 1.9349°W)?
Answer: It’s a canal!

Below: What nice landscape.

Below: Entering Villatuerta.

Below: The Ermita de San Miguel Arcángel, west of Villatuerta, surrounded by an olive grove.

Below: At the mythical wine fountain southwest of Ayegui. The Bodegas Irache winery sponsors this nifty stopping place for pilgrims. Doing so continues the medieval tradition of hospitality that the nearby monastery of Santa María la Real de Irache (now closed) would have once shown pilgrims.

Below: There are two taps: wine/vino (left) and water/agua (right). You’re not supposed to fill up water bottles and take the wine away with you; they have a poem (in Spanish) that explains the rules. We obeyed and filled our bottles (the only containers we carried) for consumption on the spot. As you might expect, we ended up staying there for quite a while.

Below: Unfortunately, those hours of wine-fueled relaxation resulted in this scene when we arrived in Villamayor. When you pass the first of a town’s only two albergues and find that it’s closed because of a winter roof collapse, you do not want to see a sign on the second albergue that says “Completo” (“No Vacancy”)!

Below: Luckily, Alfonso was there to work another one of his miracles. Here he is, running off at maximum speed, to reserve an entire casa rural, a private home that is rented to visitors. As a result, we didn’t have to sleep outside (as some did) or walk another 10 kilometers to the next town (as others did). I did, however, begin to grow concerned that the Camino was “full”; getting up at dawn, rushing every day, and outwitting other pilgrims in order to get a bed were not in my plans for our Spanish Camino.

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